Some of us stopped thinking about turkey shortly after the carcass produced just enough meat to make the final sandwich. But honestly, one of the best times to start thinking about turkey is after the November holiday. Prices have fallen, and there are often discounts on turkey parts from the heart, gizzards and neck to the wingtips and wings. Whole turkeys are also often discounted.

From now to the end of the year is the best time to make turkey soup. After completion, you will have a great choice for a few months. There is good turkey soup in the refrigerator. You can make gravy, soup, gumbo, picadillo, risotto, etc. If you need a little excitement or the weather is bad, sip a glass of hot turkey soup with lemon juice and hot sauce.

Today’s recipe focuses on the stock itself, soup and gumbo. Next week, I will share my favorite versions of turkey risotto and turkey picadillo, as well as a surprise or two.

When making the broth, don't let the liquid boil all the time. Once the water starts to boil, turn down the heat and let it simmer slowly. This will prevent the fat from being emulsified, which will make the raw material cloudy.

1 cooked turkey carcass and offal or 6-10 pounds of turkey part (see note below)

1 large carrot, cut into pieces

2 stalks of celery, cut into pieces

1 medium-sized branch (6 to 8 leaves) fresh sage

Put the turkey in a large pot. Add onion, carrot, celery, bay leaf, sage and pepper, then add water. Add 1 tablespoon of salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer slowly, partially covering it until the bones separate and fall apart; it should be simmered for at least eight hours, and then it can be simmered overnight.

To complete the stock, remove it from the heat and let it cool for about 30 minutes. Filter it through a fine sieve into a tall container. Discard the solids.

Let the stock sit for an hour, then refrigerate. When the fat has condensed on it, remove it. This is a good place to taste the stock. If it is too light for your taste, pour it into a saucepan and simmer slowly until it is reduced by about a third. Correct the salt as needed.

Use the stock immediately or pack it into 2 to 3 cup servings and freeze for one year.

Note: The market usually sells turkey parts at this time of the year. For the ingredients, I recommend viscera, heart shape, wing tip, wings and neck. If you use turkey parts instead of carcass, spread them on a baking sheet, season them with salt, and roast them in a 350-degree oven for 35 minutes.

This is my favorite dish when I was a kid, and the best of my mother's limited cooking repertoire. She is twice a year, one day after Thanksgiving and one day after Christmas. Waiting for the barley to soften, I was almost as impatient as I was on Christmas morning.

½ cup duck fat, turkey fat, olive oil or butter

Black pepper in the mill

4 cups cooked turkey meat, roughly chopped

A few hours before making the soup or the night before, rinse the barley, place it in a large bowl, and cover at least 2 inches with water. Cover gently.

To make the soup, please start at least two hours before you are going to serve it. Drain the barley, rinse again, and pour it into a clean bowl. Put it aside.

Heat the fat in a large, heavy stockpot over medium-low heat until the fat starts to smoke. Using a long-handled wooden spoon or metal mixer, stir the flour into the hot oil, about 2 tablespoons at a time. Keep stirring or stirring until the flour starts to color evenly. When the flour is medium golden brown, remove it from the heat and immediately add the onion and carrot and stir. When the batter has cooled and no longer darkens, continue to stir for three to four minutes. Season with salt and pepper, then return to medium heat.

Pour about one cup of broth into the batter and use a whisk until the mixture becomes smooth; add 2 cups and stir again. Add the remaining ingredients and simmer over low heat for about an hour. Add turkey and barley, simmer until the barley is soft, about 25 minutes. Taste, season with salt and pepper, and serve.

The soup can be cooled, refrigerated and reheated; its taste will improve in about three days.

For the gumbo soup that will take you to New Orleans in every bite, you need ingredients you might not have on hand, especially onion powder and garlic powder. They are essential for traditional flavors, although you can make delicious dishes without them.

½ cup duck fat, lard, peanut oil or clarified butter

1 yellow onion, diced

1 green pepper, cut into small cubes

4 large celery ribs, cut into small cubes

2 tablespoons filé powder (ground dried sassafras, also called okra paste)

2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more flavor

¼ teaspoon chili powder or jalapeno

1 pound Andouille, Kielbasa or other smoked sausage, cut into medium-sized dice

8 ounces okra, cut into ½ inch thick rounds, optional

4 cups leftover turkey, preferably dark meat, cut into medium-sized dice

6 ½-7 cups steamed white rice (from 2 cups of uncooked rice), hot

Fresh sage leaves and chopped fresh sage for decoration, optional

Tabasco or Crystal Hot Sauce

Put the turkey broth in a large pot, heat it over medium heat, bring it to a boil, and bring to a boil to 4 cups. Set aside.

Put the fat in a large heavy saucepan and heat it over medium high heat. When it starts to smoke, use a long-handled whisk to stir the flour into the hot oil, about 2 tablespoons at a time. Keep stirring when the flour starts to change color. (If black spots appear, the flour has burned; discard the mixture and start again.)

When the mixture is reddish-brown, remove it from the fire, and immediately stir the onion, green pepper, and celery with a wooden spoon. Lean your head back and protect the stirring arm to prevent the rising hot steam from burning you. When the batter cools and stops darkening, continue stirring, about three to four minutes. Add Philae powder, 1 teaspoon salt, onion powder, garlic powder, black and white pepper and chili powder or jalapeno powder.

Return the stock to the heat and bring to a boil. Add the batter, one tablespoon at a time, stirring after each addition. Add the sausage and garlic, reduce the heat and cook for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally.

While the okra is simmering, if used, fry the okra in a heavy pot over medium heat until it releases liquid and the liquid evaporates. Remove from heat and season lightly with salt.

Add the turkey and fried okra to the stock and simmer for another 20 minutes. Taste and correct the salt and pepper. Gumbo is best after a day’s rest, so if you can, let it cool and refrigerate overnight, with a lid on.

Remove the gumbo soup from the refrigerator and transfer it to a large, thick-bottomed pot. Heat over medium heat; stir frequently to avoid burning. When it is heated through, taste and correct the salt.

When serving, scoop the gumbo into a separate soup plate and place a large spoonful of rice on top of each portion. Garnish with sage leaves and sage ends. If using, serve with hot sauce.

To date, Michele Anna Jordan has authored 24 books, including "A Journey to Cook Sonoma." Email her michele@micheleannajordan.com.

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